Tag Archives: biking adventure

GAP/C&O-Day 12-Last Day on the Trail

17 Jul

Today would be our last day on the GAP, having explored the C&O Canal Towpath and the Great Allegheny Passage from Harper’s Ferry, WV to Buena Vista, PA. It’s been a wonderful trip! The trail conditions were much better than we anticipated, even on the C&O. I think we were expecting the worst since it can be the trail most affected by weather conditions, but we were pleasantly surprised.

We stayed the night in West Newton, PA at Bright Morning B&B. We had arranged to eat an early breakfast, and had walked over to the Bistro (in a house adjacent to the one where we were staying) to get coffee while we waited. Soon we were sitting down to a hearty breakfast of sausage, scrambled eggs, breakfast strata and fruit. We were well fueled for our last bike ride of the trip!

Bright Morning Breakfast

We wanted to get an early start because of the forecast of rain, so we gathered our gear and headed out. I love this view of the little church across the street from our B&B, just as the sun came up this morning.

church sunrise

We were traveling back toward Connellsville where our truck was parked, so we were not seeing new trail today, but enjoyed the ride none the less.

We made good time, and planned to stop in a little town we’d missed on the ride the day before. One of the folks we met along the trail had told us about Dawson, PA. It was a little town a short distance off the trail, but had been named to the National Register of Historic places due to the number of historic homes.

We took the bridge over the river and into town, and rolled in just in time to wait for a train to cross through the middle of town.

Dawson train

We continued on once the trained had passed and pedaled through the tiny town admiring the old homes and varied architectural periods.

I saw an old town clock in front of a building, and stopped to take a picture.

town clock

I noticed the building was the town’s historical society, and tried the door, but it was locked. We pedaled on around the block and down the street and saw a couple of monuments and flags commemorating the town’s war veterans. There was an older gentleman clipping grass and tending the flowers and we stopped to talk to him. He introduced himself as John, and we visited with him for several minutes.

war memorial2

He asked about our ride and shared with us some interesting history about the little town of Dawson. At one time, the town was very well to do and was the home of 6 millionaires during the coal and coke era. That was the reason for the number of elaborate historic homes.

We enjoyed our visit with him right there on the street. We were just about to leave, allowing him to get back to his work of tending the flowers, when he asked us if we were in a hurry to get back on the trail. We told him that we weren’t, it was our last day and we were taking our time getting back to the B&B so as not to miss anything.

He said he was a member of the historical society and had a key to the building. He offered to go get his key and meet us there if we would be interested in seeing it. We told him we’d love to see it, so we headed back up the street and parked our bikes on the porch of the little building while he walked home and got his key. His neat two story house was right on the way and he soon met us with the key.

Inside the building was a very thorough collection of items from the Dawson area. He said the AC was on and it was very cool inside, a nice change from the muggy trail. He gave us a private tour, room by room, even though he was in sweaty work clothes and I’m sure had things he needed to do. But he seemed to enjoy sharing the history of his town with us and we definitely enjoyed seeing the old items in the collection. He told me I could take pictures of anything I wanted.

The building was much bigger on the inside than it appeared to be on the outside. There were rooms full of old photos of the town and buildings, old signs and posters, a room dedicated to the history of the coal mining era, a school room, a room full of Indian arrowheads and artifacts, old wedding dresses and evening gowns, old hand written ledgers and record books from businesses that used to be in the town during it’s heyday. It was all very interesting.

He offered us a cold soft drink from the fridge in the kitchen as we walked through to the rear of the building. We both drank an ice cold root beer! The kitchen was not part of the museum, but it could have been since it was a step back in time, having not been remodeled for years. I loved the kitchen cabinets! Very retro!

retro kitchen

Then we reached the room that contained the piece de resistance. A whole room full of the most amazing model train set I’d ever seen. It was a beautiful work by a gentleman from Gaithersburg, MD. Sam Powell had built the model railroad piece by piece in his basement over a period of years! Sadly though, Mr. Powell passed away suddenly in January of 2016 while shoveling snow. His family searched for a museum in the Southwest Pennsylvania area to become the new home of his masterpiece. Since the little town of Dawson was in the area from which Mr. Powell drew inspiration in designing his model railroad, the gift was offered to them.

It was a tremendous gift for tiny Tri-Town Area Historical Society, and required a special room, sized in the same dimensions as Mr. Powell’s basement. Our new friend John, showed us where they had to knock out and extend one wall to be able to accept the gift. Also, the room had to be climate controlled to a specific temperature so the train and tracks would operate properly.

The railroad arrived on a 53 foot trailer, and was in pieces. The historical society folks opened up the trailer and had no clue how to reassemble. Into the story came another group of generous individuals. Mr. Powell’s family had reached out to a model train group in Pittsburgh to see if they’d be willing to lend assistance in reassembling the train. The S-Guagers model train club stepped in and volunteered 1 1/2 years of their time to reassemble the model train! Through all these obstacles, this little historical society was up to the challenge, and today folks come from all over to see Mr. Powell’s amazing model railroad. What a special gift the family made to the little town of Dawson, with a population of 353!

We spent a good bit of time looking at the model railroad. It was just amazing and all made by hand. But we didn’t want to outstay our welcome since we’d taken John away from his work at the war memorial. We signed the guest book and thanked him for our private tour. It was such a treat!

He seemed to enjoy the tour just as much as we did. He said it helps him to stay busy these days since his wife passed away 3 1/2 years ago, and he tries to stay involved in his town and in the historical society. God bless him!

He was such a kind man, taking time out of his day to share a museum with us! We have certainly met many nice people on this trip, and the memory of our private tour of an amazing museum in little Dawson, PA will be a fond one.

We now know why the Great Allegheny Passage is touted as the friendliest bike path in the US. It certainly lives up to its claim. We met nice people at every stop and trail town along the way. I’m so glad we got to mark this one off the bucket list.

GAP/C&O-Day 4- A Baguette and a Wedge of Cheese

12 Jul

 

Our Civil War education continued this morning at breakfast. The owner of the B&B (Jacob Rohrbach Inn) is a very knowledgeable history buff, hosting a Civil War lecture series each Wednesday evening during the summer in the backyard for anyone interested. The other guest at breakfast was a high school history teacher from Massachusetts. He was also a passionate expert on the Civil War! He was doing a tour of Civil War battlefields and would be seeing Antietam today. When he arrived at the National Cemetery near the battlefield yesterday, he asked a ranger if there was any information about where those killed in the battle had been buried. He was able to find his great great grandfather’s grave. No one in the family knew where he was buried following his death in the battle of Antietam, until yesterday. You could tell it was an emotional moment for him. The breakfast was delicious, and we ate every bite!

fog

Though foggy when we woke up, it soon cleared and we got back on the C&O and started our day. There were initially quite a few mud puddles, but we soon traveled out of that area and we very happy with the condition of the trail for the rest of the ride.

Learning the fascinating history of the C&O (Chesapeake & Ohio) Canal has been most enjoyable. Before the invention and emergence of the railroad, it was thought that canals were the best means of transporting goods over long distances.

Canals like the C&O were hand dug, and relied on a series of lift locks (74 on the C&O) to adjust the water levels for the difference in elevation. It is estimated that 35,000 laborers, mostly European immigrants were employed to build the C&O and its structures. It took 22 years to complete, and when finished it was 184 miles long. It included 11 hand-hewn stone aquaducts and a 3,118 foot tunnel.

It’s ironic that the C&O Canal broke ground on July 4, 1828, the same day that the cornerstone was being laid for the B&O Railroad in Baltimore. The railroad and the canal were in a race to see who could reach the Ohio River first. It was a bold undertaking for  the railroad investors, because at that time, there were only 3 other railroads in the U.S., none more than a dozen miles long. We learned from a National Park Service ranger, that there was no viable means to even pull a train when this was undertaken. The early rail cars were pulled by horse or mule, just like the canal boats were. The steam locomotive was invented after the railroads were begun. The railroad won the race to the Ohio River and the rest is history. The railroad was responsible for the eventual demise of canal services. But what remains is an unparalleled biking and hiking adventure that National Geographic Adventurer calls “an American Classic”. The bike path that follows the long ago mule towpath is the best way to see the artifacts left over from the canal era. It truly is a national treasure.

 

We met more people biking the towpath today than yesterday. Yesterday was drizzly and grey, but today was beautiful with gorgeous blue skies and bright sunshine. We stopped to take a look at Dam 4, and another biker offered to take our picture for us. We enjoyed talking to 2 or 3 other bikers at that spot as they stopped to see the dam as well.

dam

A little further down the trail, we’d stopped to take a look at one of the locks that still had a portion of the gates intact when a guy on a bike approached.

 

We greeted each other and he started on his way, then stopped and turned around and came back to us. He called out, “Could I ask you something?” We said, sure. He said, “Would you mind taking a picture with me?” That was a bit unusual. I didn’t think we looked famous or anything, and I knew we didn’t look like expert bicyclists, but I couldn’t think of a reason why he would want our picture, but we said, of course! He told us his wife had dropped him off that morning at the Maryland state line, and he planned to ride all day and into the evening. She was worried that he was alone on the trail and had checked in with him by phone a few times, asking if he’d seen anyone yet. He said, “You two are the first ones I’ve seen all day and I want to text our picture to my wife so she won’t worry so much”. We gladly obliged and when he finished snapping his photo, I snapped one of my own with our new trail friend.

friends

We parted, with wishes for a good day as we went our separate ways. Soon the trail took us through the Big Slackwater section of the canal. When the canal was dug, there was a 3 mile section that had to be bypassed because of the stone cliffs so near the edge of the Potomac. Canal engineers knew it would be almost impossible to blast a canal 60 feet wide and 6 feet deep into the limestone cliffs. The builders decided to use the river instead of continuing the canal for that section. The function of Dam 4 was to slow down the swift current in the Potomac River so it could be used as a substitute for the canal. They still had to blast rock, but only for a narrow towpath for the mules right along the river’s edge. Much of that towpath was destroyed by flooding and erosion years ago, but the National Park Service has restored the missing towpath with concrete right over the edge of the river, reestablishing the old towpath alignment. It is a beautiful ride with the river on one side and the sheer granite cliffs dripping with wild raspberries and wildflowers on the other.

We finished our riding and pulled into cute little Williamsport, MD in time for a late lunch.

coal barn

We asked some other bikers that had pulled off for a rest stop if they knew of a good local place they’d recommend. The suggestions were unanimous, we had to eat at Desert Rose Cafe.

The cafe was a short distance from the trail but up to the top of a steep hill, which Jimmy rode all the way up. I’ll admit, I didn’t even try. I just walked my bike up. We found it easily, right where they said it would be and were glad to see they had outdoor seating. Jimmy went in to grab a menu while I stayed with the bikes. He came back out and said they would come out to us and take our order, which they did in no time at all.

 

We spotted a bike parked out front, fully loaded with more gear than I’ve ever imagined possible, with 2 cats in crates to boot! The man that owned the bike was biking cross country. He does it every year with his 2 cats. The cats seemed very content to patiently wait for him to finish eating. The owner told us later that he stops by her cafe every year on his cross country trek, which he finances by washing windows. He offers to wash hers for $35 plus a meal. The windows looked really nice and clean and he got a good meal plus $35!

They took great care of us at the little cafe, keeping our ice tea filled and asking about our trip. The owner, Rose kept coming out with refills and was very knowledgeable about the bike trail. She was a delight to talk to and the food was excellent. We seriously considered coming back for dinner, but decided to try the Italian restaurant nearby and come back to the cafe for dessert.

After lunch, we checked in to our cute little B&B (Bay Farm B&B ) in another historic home, dropped off our bikes and gear and took a walk around town before getting cleaned up for dinner. Williamsport is a friendly little town with old buildings, some civil war history, a statue of Douglas, the town mule (of canal fame) and very nice people.

donkey

One of the storefronts on the main street had a massive calendar for the month of July that filled the entire store window. On the calendar were listed the names of people in town that had birthdays in July. How awesome is that?

calendar

A police officer making rounds stopped us as we walked along and chatted with us a bit. He noticed my bike shirt that listed Bikeworld in Paducah, KY and asked us about our trip. We talked for a few minutes then parted ways. We strolled on down the main street checking out shop windows and killing time. We came to an intersection and were waiting to cross when the same police officer came down the side street in our direction. He’d walked around the block trying to intercept us because he’d forgotten to tell us about Doubleday Hill. Once he pointed it out to us, we could see it from the intersection but would have missed it otherwise. We thanked him and said we’d walk to the hill right then and see the civil war site. It was a beautiful view of the Potomac River and the town from on top of the hill.

After our little walking tour of Williamsport, we headed back to the B&B and were able to meet the owner. When we arrived, she wasn’t in but told us to let ourselves in and to make ourselves at home, she’d be by later. Jessie is a young woman who bought the old house, built in 1835 and restored it, deciding to try her hand at running a B&B. She has done a beautiful job of restoration and it is charming. Our room was super cute and on the top floor of the old home that overlooked Main Street.

We had an excellent dinner at Tony’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant. And after dinner, we walked back to Desert Rose Cafe for dessert. Rose was still there, and after we ordered homemade cookies and a milkshake, she asked about our plans for riding tomorrow. We told her we’d be heading toward Hancock, and weren’t sure if we were going to be able to find a place for lunch since the trail is less populated in that direction. As you may have noticed, much of our trail riding revolves around food! Jimmy asked her if she had anything we could purchase for our lunch tomorrow, mentioning that even a baguette and a chunk of cheese would suit us just fine. She laughed and said she didn’t have that on hand, but was planning to grocery shop in the morning and she’d pick us up a baguette and a nice wedge of cheese. She further said we could take what we wanted of the baguette and cheese wedge, and she’d keep the rest to eat it herself, joining us in our cheese/baguette lunch, if in spirit only. What a sweet gesture! So the plan is that we will meet her back at the cafe at 8:30 am tomorrow morning to pick up our baguette and cheese wedge!

There are good people everywhere you go. We were blessed with the encounters we had today, and we will carry fond memories of each person we met, the guy trying to reassure his wife, the police officer that wanted to make sure we saw everything his little town had to offer, and Rose, the gracious cafe owner who went out of her way to make our trip everything we wanted it to be. If you’ve thought that good people are a thing of the past, just grab a bike and get out there. They’re everywhere!