Tag Archives: bicycle travel

2 Bikes, 5 States, 10 Trails, 14 Days

28 Jun

Kansas-Prairie Spirit Bike Trail

  • Day Three-drive from Arkansas to Kansas
  • Day Four and Five-Prairie Spirit Trail
  • https://bikeprairiespirit.com/
  • Trail length; 52 miles
  • Additional Trails connected to Prairie Spirit are the Southwind Rail Trail and the Flint Hills Rail Trail

We tackled this trail by riding out and back from each end. Our first night of lodging was in a cute little AirBNB in Iola, Kansas. I would highly recommend this place. It’s actually converted office space in a small little strip of businesses right beside the Farm Bureau. At one time, it was a dentist’s office. It is adorable on the inside but very plain on the outside. It’s located right off the town square and we were able to walk to dinner. The AirBNB host messaged us before our arrival, knowing we were on a bike trip, and offered to wash our dirty laundry for us since the apartment did not contain a washer/dryer. That was above and beyond the usual AirBNB service!

As we’d made our way from Arkansas to Kansas, it had begun to rain, and rained an incredible amount overnight. The forecast did not look promising, but we’d come this far to ride the trail, we had rain gear, so we decided to give it a try.

We were just a few blocks from the trail at our AirBNB so it was an easy ride to the trailhead in Iola. We first travelled a few miles south of Iola to check out the South Wind Rail Trail since it seamlessly connected to the Prairie Spirit.

Because we’d mainly come to explore the Prairie Spirit, we turned around after a few miles on the South Wind and started north. Though overcast when we started out with a high possibility of rain, it cleared up by mid morning and we did not experience any rain! An answer to prayer. The Prairie Spirit is a beautiful trail and we were surprised by the amount of tree canopy along most of the trail. We expected Kansas to be flat and open, which it was, but the trail had nice shade along most of the route. We also were able to see wide open prairie land. It’s a beautiful part of the country!

The amount of rain the area had received overnight was evident on the trails. All of the creeks and streams were overflowing their banks, and a few roads were underwater. But because the Prairie Spirit trail is on an old railroad bed, we were above all of the flooding.

We had looked at the trail map before we left, and found one little restaurant available for lunch along the trail. But when we arrived, there was a sign on the door saying they were closed for the day due to flooding at home. So lunch was what we’d brought along to snack on in our bike bags. We rode a total of 34 miles out and back to Iola, loaded the bikes on our car and drove to Ottawa at the other end of the trail, where we’d explore the northern part of the trail the next day.

In Ottawa, we checked in to The Painted Lady B&B. The Painted Lady was built in 1898 and designed by architect, George Washburn. The stained glass, beveled windows, floors and woodwork are all original to the house. In the 1960’s, the house became an apartment building. It was purchased in the late 70s by the Kahler family to raise their 4 daughters. It now is a beautiful B&B with 3 guests rooms. We stayed there 2 nights, and we were the only guests, so we had the house to ourselves.

Right next door to The Painted Lady, is the Gillette House, which has an interesting story. We had noticed this house when we were driving in, because it has some historical signage in front and also looked like a B&B. It was designed by the same architect, George Washburn, who was also responsible for the design of the stone train depot in town and several courthouses across Kansas.

Historic Ottawa Depot

The original owner of the Gillette House, H.F. Sheldon, was the mayor of Ottawa, being re-elected 5 times. He was also a trustee for many years at Ottawa University. He commissioned the house to be built in 1889. He instructed the architect that he wanted a home that was a grand and dignified building. The slate roof on the turret is original, and the round turret itself was a luxurious addition because it required the use of curved bricks and stone trim.

Fast forward to 2018. Charles Gillette, a former mayor of Ottawa and retired business man, had a dream one night. In the dream, which he refers to as a faith premonition, he saw a house and heard these instructions, ‘Find that house, buy that house, and find someone who will take care of the house forever.’ Additionally, he was instructed to find the owner of the house and find a way to pay him $300,000, and find a way to put another $100,000 with it for maintenance and upkeep, and make the house something in which Ottawa could be proud.

Gillette recognized the house he’d seen in his dream, though he didn’t really know much about it. It was a historic home in Ottawa, so he drove to the house and took a photo of it. He showed the photo to an acquaintance in town and asked him if he was familiar with the house. The man took one look at the photo and said, “that’s the house I live in!” I’d call that a divine intervention!

So thanks to Mr. Gillette’s generosity and his leap of faith, the house was purchased and donated to Ottawa University. In the 1930’s-1970’s, the house, then known as Sheldon Hall, had served as a dorm for students at the university. With the donation of the house back to the university, it is once again being used as a dorm, with room for 16 students that must meet a certain criteria in order to reside there.

So the Gillette House was built by the mayor, purchased by another mayor and donated back to the town’s university. Pretty cool! What an awesome gift for the University and for the town of Ottawa.

Ottawa University also has an interesting history. It’s a private Baptist university and was founded in 1865. It’s origins began in the 1860’s when Baptist missionaries came to the area to establish a church. At the time, the area was occupied by Native Americans. When the Baptist State Convention was determining a place to establish a college, the area that the missionaries had been serving in (later known as Ottawa) was identified as the place to establish the college. The Native Americans were agreeable to the idea. The missionaries had a good relationship with them and after discussions with the Native Americans, it was agreed that the tribe would donate the land needed to build the college.

Way ahead of their time, the first board of trustees met in 1862. The board of trustees consisted of 4 Native Americans and 2 Baptists. The university admitted Native Americans from its founding, which was very unusual in the 1860’s.

We were treated to an awesome breakfast the next morning, and headed out for the trail.

Our ride on the second day began at the traihead in Ottawa. It was an overcast day and remained cool and cloudy all day, with an occasional sprinkle, but no big rain or thunder. We saw an abundance of “wild” things. Before we ever left the city limits, I spotted 3 animals ahead on the trail. I thought it was a pack of dogs, so I slowed my speed considerably. As we approached, it turned out to be 3 foxes playing and rolling around on the trail. They noticed us as we approached and one by one, skittered off the trail under a big bush.

Later in the day, we came upon 3 badgers. They weren’t quite as quick to move away. They stood their ground as we approached. We slowed our speed and moved toward them. Jimmy used his dog horn, and that seemed to do the trick, though they still stopped and looked back at us as if to decide if they wanted to pick a fight with us or not. I’m glad they gave up and didn’t stand their ground as we invaded their territory.

We saw an abundance of wild blackberries, wild asparagus, and wildflowers growing along the trail.

We enjoyed exploring this section of trail, and though the pictures aren’t quite as pretty because of the overcast skies, it was still beautiful country. There weren’t any places to eat until we got back to Ottawa. We grabbed tacos at Taco Bell and the skies opened up. We quickly pedaled to an abandoned gas station to seek shelter from the rain, and ate our tacos.

We then rode past our turn off to the B&B and went to the first trailhead, the old train depot. It housed a delightful museum with surprisingly high-quality exhibits for such a small town museum. We spent some time taking it all in.

I loved the part of the trail through Ottawa that went right down the center of the street!

The Flint Hills Trail connects to the Prairie Spirit in Ottawa, and we rode a portion of that just to check it out. We will have to come back and do that one some day. At 117 miles, it’s the longest Rail Trail in Kansas.

After another comfortable night at The Painted Lady we were offered another amazing breakfast; Dutch baby, bacon, and fruit and yogurt.

And yes, we ate every bite. Just the two of us. Split it right down the middle.

On to Minnesota!

Le P’tit Train du Nord-Day 6 (Sainte-Adele to Mont Tremblant)

16 Jul

 

 

A peek out the balcony door told us it was raining this morning.  To the right of the photo is a mountain in the distance, and it was covered with mist, obscuring the summit.  We got ready, went down to breakfast and hoped the skies would clear by the time we were ready to ride.

We had a special server this morning.  The daughter of the innkeeper was helping her mom today, and as she placed our food before us, she said very sweetly, “Bon Apetit!”

 

We finished breakfast packed up our gear and headed out.  The rain had stopped and the skies were soon clear.  Even though we had begun our trip back to the truck, covering territory already seen, I still took lots of pictures.  There were too many beautiful sights to capture them on the first time through. I took some repeat photos for sure, but I took more photos of scenes I hadn’t captured on the way down.  We allowed ourselves a little more time to explore the areas right off the trail.  In several places, there were pathways or footbridges down to the water level or across a stream.  We took the time to explore those today, seeing the beautiful scenery from a different vantage point.

 

 

 

I noticed more wild blueberries today, though they aren’t quite ripe yet, more wild raspberries which are ripe, so I ate a few, and lots of wild asparagus. As we neared the town of Val-David, we met another couple at one of the depot stops and they told us there was a big farmer’s market at Val-David today with it being Saturday.

We pedaled into Val-David right around lunch time stored our bikes in front of the depot and walked to the farmer’s market in town.  There was such a variety of produce, meats, and cheeses.

 

After walking up and down each row of vendors, we decided to buy some things for our lunch. We bought a smoked French baguette, a pint of fresh raspberries, a chunk of locally made cheese, Jimmy bought some kind of homemade sausage on a stick (which he made into a hotdog by putting it in the baguette) a 3 pack of cocoa balls, and some kind of green drink that the vendor assured would rejuvenate our tired legs and allow us to ride several more miles.  It contained honey, bananas, and spirulina (which I just Googled and found out is seaweed? I had no idea…guess that explains the green color). It was really good. We paid for our selections and took them to a picnic table in a shady spot in front of the depot.

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All of the makings for a fine picnic

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Beautiful fresh raspberries

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Jimmy made a hotdog and I made a cheese sandwich

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Back onto the bikes to pedal the rest of the way to Mont Tremblant, where we will stay tonight. The temperature was warmer today than it has been, around 78 or 80 degrees, but still very nice with low humidity, but we were ready for a break and a cold drink.  We came into a little town with a trailside cafe.  We sat out on the deck, overlooking the bike trail, and the server asked us what we would like to order.  He spoke English very well and immediately switched from French to English once he knew who he was dealing with.  We asked about the cold drinks, not really settling on anything in particular.  Jimmy jokingly asked if they happened to have brewed iced tea. (What is called iced tea in Canada is either a very fruity sweet drink with maybe a little herbal tea, or it’s a can of iced tea that’s about half lemonade and very sweet).  He said, “iced tea? No we do not have iced tea. ” He said, “are you Americans?!”  We said yes, and he said, “I always forget that about Americans.  When I go there and I drink the tea, I say to myself, what is this?  No sugar?” (Obviously he hasn’t drank iced tea in the South)

But he continued, “You know what?  I think I can make you some tea.  I’m going to try it OK?”  He said, “I will infuse some tea, I will use a little lemon, and I will bring you some ice.” We said sure, that would be great.  He left and was busy with a couple of other tables but every time he passed our table, he would say, just a minute, it’s almost done.

Before long, he brought out a tray with a pitcher of tea, two glasses of ice with straws, and presented it with a flourish.

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It was delicious and so refreshing with the ice and lemon.  It wasn’t American style tea, I’m pretty sure he used an herbal tea, but we couldn’t have been happier, and he was quite proud of himself as well. He said that was the first time he’d made tea, and he might suggest to his boss that they add it to the menu…for the Americans!

We finished up our mileage (around 31 miles today) with the boost from the ice cold tea, and arrived at our B and B, a beautiful place in the woods where we have a view of deer feeding out of a trough the innkeeper fills with corn.

We are out of town by a few miles, so we used a taxi to get to a restaurant in town, called C’est la Vie.  We were seated outdoors on the deck and presented with menus.  Our server told us they are known for their hot stone cooking, so we had to give that a try.  He explained that we would choose our meat and that it would be brought out raw with a lava stone slab heated to 600 degrees F.  Why not? It was a lot of fun and the server gave us pointers on how to properly cook the meat.  The stone remained very hot throughout the meal.  He recommended that we sear the steak on each side for one minute, then move it off the stone onto the wood and, then cut off bite sized pieces and cook them individually to the desired doneness.  Surprisingly, they cooked very quickly.  Also served with the meal was a selection of cooked vegetables hot enough to eat, or they could be caramelized  on the stone with the meat.

 

It was very entertaining and absolutely delicious.  I asked the server if this was a technique specific to this area, and he said no, to Europe, but specifically Germany. Lol! The meal included dessert and French pressed coffee (of course!).  Tiramisu for Jimmy and sugar tart for me.  I asked the server to describe sugar tart, and he said it is the most famous dessert of the region, he said it is like a brown sugar pie, so I had to try it.  Both were served with a ground cherry on top, something I’d never tried before, but had seen earlier at the farmer’s market.  He said ground cherries grow in abundance in the area. They were really good. Perfect ending to a lovely day on Le P’tit Train du Nord. (The Little Train of the North)

 

Trails and Beaver Tails (Day 5; Sainte-Adele to Saint-Jerome and back)

15 Jul

Sadly, we only have two days of riding/trail exploring left. Today’s ride covered the remaining segment of trail we hadn’t seen yet. Tomorrow we will begin our two day trek back to the truck. Today’s route took us from Sainte-Adele, where we stayed at Auberge de la Gare B and B, to Saint-Jerome, where we ate lunch, then headed back to the B and B. It was a 42 mile round trip.

Breakfast was delicious.  We were given a choice of French Toast or Belgian Waffles.  We both went with the waffles! They were served with a yogurt, granola, fruit parfait and a strawberry smoothie.

The day was sunny and clear and we found ourselves stopping quite often for photos.  The scenery here is just too much for our eyes to take in.  One of the great things about the Le P’tit Train Du Nord linear parc is that it travels along lakes, rushing streams, and rivers for much of its length.  There’s no shortage of photo opportunities as you can see from the pictures below.

I was excited to spot wild blueberries alongside the trail, just beginning to ripen.  More food for the bears!

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We stopped along the trail at a couple of the restored depots for a water break.  One was housing a display of artwork by local artists, and we talked to the artist for a few minutes as we looked at their paintings.  The other depot still looked very much the way it did in the early part of the last century, and two gentlemen were staffing a little kitchen offering muffins and coffee for a small donation.  It is fortunate that the old train stations have been saved.  They are certainly an asset to the trail users and to the communities.

As we travelled south, we got closer and closer to Montreal.  The trail left the pristine wilderness and entered a more urban area.

Our goal was to reach Saint-Jerome, about as close to Montreal as we cared to go on bike. The old train depot in Saint-Jerome still stands, a lovely stone building, and it, like all the others we’ve seen, has been restored and repurposed as a tourist info center.  The planters in front of the station were full of beautiful flowers, including black petunias.

We ate at a cafe with outdoor seating right across from the train station.  We both ordered the lunch special, which included a sandwich, soup, and drink.  I ordered my first soft drink on this trip, and it was brought out in a can with a tiny bit of ice in the glass, as is common in Europe.

After lunch, we headed back away from Montreal and toward our B and B.  Since we were at this B and B for two nights, we were able to leave some of our gear there.  We were about half way back to the B and B when we decided we needed an ice cream break.  We stopped at one of the old depots, and asked the gentleman staffing it if he knew of a place to get ice cream.  He pointed us to a building right around the corner. I took a picture of this sign hanging in the depot, that visitors of any language could understand!

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The menu at the ice cream shop, was entirely in French of course, but we were thankful that every menu item had pictures.  I really liked the picture of the fresh strawberry sundae! Fresh locally grown strawberries are in season here, and they are appearing on menus while they’re available.

We made it back to the B and B, rested up a bit, got cleaned up and starting thinking about food again.  Since we had already done the fondue thing offered at the B and B last night, we decided we wanted something different tonight.  The only problem was, this B and B is a bit of a way from town, and the road into town is not suitable for bikes.  The owner offered to arrange a taxi to take us to dinner, and Jimmy did an online search and found a place he thought we’d like.

The taxi ride was fast! Though we were just a few miles from the restaurant, he got us there in record time.  We were seated at the restaurant by Max.  He was extremely nice and asked where we were from, was this our first time here, etc.  He told us the restaurant occupies an old building that used to belong to one of the early settlers of the town.  It served as a home from 1880 until the young chef (25 years old at the time) purchased it and opened up the restaurant.  When Max found out we were from Kentucky, he told us his favorite basketball team was UK, that certainly made us like him that much more!

The menu was extensive and he took a great deal of time translating it into English, and explaining how the chef would prepare each item.  We’ve seen some very uncommon entrees listed on the menus in Canada. Probably common for here, but not common in the States.  And we’ve tried some of them, Jimmy ate wild boar on our first night here, but I’m not as adventurous when it comes to some of the wild game that is common here.

Max described an item that caught my interest as “Beaver Tail”.  He said it has a chewy crusty bread base, topped with prosciutto, thinly sliced beets, etc.  He said it is almost like a pizza. That sounded good to me, as long as it wasn’t actually beaver tail.  When he came back around, after giving us a few minutes to make up our minds, I just had to double check.  Jimmy placed his order of poutine (the chef’s special creation using sweet potatoes and a variety of seafood) and I really wanted the pizza, but not if it was on a beaver tail!!  When he looked to me for my order, I said, “I’d really like to try the beet and prosciutto pizza, but it’s not really a beaver tail is it?”  Max smiled and said, “Ma’am, if I served you a beaver tail, you’d be chewing until 11:00 pm, and then you would give up and say, oh, well…”. He said, “it is not really a beaver tail, it just has the shape of a beaver tail because of the crusty bread”. We all three enjoyed a good laugh out of that.  The food was delicious and it was very reasonable for the chef inspired menu. We enjoyed every bite, down to the dessert and cafe au lait!  Another even faster taxi ride back to the B and B concluded our day. Jusqu’a demain! (Until tomorrow)