GAP/C&O-Day 9-Laurel Highlands
Breakfast at Yoder’s Guest House was self serve. We were the only guests last night, so we were able to eat when we wanted, not having to wait for a set time. The owner had left the fridge stocked with yogurts, boiled eggs, juice, and milk, plus there was fruit, cereals, oatmeal, bagels, and English muffins. We had no problem filling up.
We headed out on another beautiful day, anxious to see more of the Laurel Highlands. The mountain streams running along the path became larger and swifter, and the wildflowers more abundant.
Soon after we left Meyersdale, we crossed over the spectacular Salisbury Viaduct. The first train crossed the 101-foot high trestle in 1912. It was quite an undertaking for the engineers of the day. The trestle is 1908 feet long, and has beautiful views of the Casselman River Valley. I took several pictures along the trestle.
A little further up the trail, right on the other side of the viaduct was a small family cemetery. I looked at the old headstones for a bit and it was in a beautiful spot right near the river with views of big farms all around.
I’ve noticed several homeowners along the trail set out coolers of bottled water for thirsty bikers and hikers using the trail. The water fountains are not quite as plentiful along the GAP, as they were on the C&O, so I would bet these get quite a bit of use. This one was ingeniously designed, with donations being dropped through a slot in the fence.
We saw small waterfalls as we traveled on, as well as a profusion of wildflowers.
I stopped along the trail to photograph a waterfall and we talked to a gentleman that was also riding. When we pulled up, he was in the grass to the side of the trail looking for something. He explained that his riding partner had passed away recently and he had planted some wildflowers at one of their favorite spots along the trail. He was looking to see if any had come up. He had chosen flowers that had meaning, like a variety called snow drop because his friend had enjoyed snow skiing. I have forgotten the other two varieties, but he explained how he chose them based on memories he’d shared with this special friend. He told us of some of the adventures he and his riding buddy had experienced in the past. I felt sad that he’d lost his friend but was glad he was still out enjoying the trails. We visited with him for quite some time, then asked him if he knew of a lunch place to recommend ahead on the trail. He mentioned a nice restaurant in Rockwood in an old restored opera house. He was friends with the owner, in fact the place we were standing and talking was at the boundary of their land. They owned a thousand acres alongside the railtrail. He knew the owner personally and said it was a very good place to eat, but he wasn’t sure if it was open today. We told him we’d take a little detour into Rockwood and check it out since we were traveling in that direction.
We continued on and before too long, we pulled off in Rockwood, followed his instructions to the restaurant and crossed the river. We were headed into town to see if the restaurant was open. However, there was a train stalled on the tracks and we were unable to make it over to the opera house. There were a number of cars waiting in line to cross, and it seemed they’d been there for some time.
We decided to turn around and go back to the trail where we’d seen a shelter and some picnic tables and eat the snacks we’d purchased at the convenience store the night before. We’d make up for it at dinner!
We were just finishing up our convenience store meal, when the gentleman we’d talked to earlier on the trail pedaled up. Apparently he had ridden ahead trying to determine if the opera house restaurant was open, then he planned to pedal back to us to let us know for sure so we didn’t have to make an unnecessary detour off the trail if the restaurant happened to be closed. He was able to cross the track before the train stalled, and he determined that the restaurant was indeed closed today, but then he couldn’t get back across the track because of the stalled train. Finally, after waiting several minutes, the stalled train slowly pulled away, but before the crossing gates lifted, another train roared in and he had to wait for that one as well.
He found us at the trailhead and explained all of that to us as we finished up our meal. He said he had never gotten stuck on the other side of the tracks before, and he rides that section quite often. It was such an unexpected kindness from a complete stranger! He wanted to help us find the best possible lunch in the area, and we could tell he was really disappointed that we didn’t get to try it. How nice of him to take the time to pedal all the way into Rockwood to find out, then try to get back to us before we had to take the detour for nothing. There truly are good people everywhere!
More lovely countryside awaited, so we bid our new friend goodbye and rode the last length of trail before stopping at Confluence. We crossed one other trestle bridge with beautiful views, then on to our destination for the night.
Here’s our view as we crossed the last bridge into Confluence.
Confluence, PA is a beautiful little town. Each home and B&B is neat and tidy. I don’t think we saw a messy yard anywhere!
The town gets its name from the confluence of three rivers, and sits on the point where they meet. The Youghiogheny, Laurel Hill, and the Casselman Rivers all come together here. Though the locals pronounce the town name a little differently than I would. It is pronounced with two syllables here and sounds like CON fluns.
We made it to the Smith House Inn a little early. The caretaker was just a few minutes in arriving, but we enjoyed talking to a family from Austin, TX who are also staying the night.
The home is beautiful, built in 1920. Our hostess showed us around, and took us up to our room.
She said the house has been kept in remarkably good conditions, with very few changes to the original fixtures. All the light fixtures were original, original hardwood floors and I loved the big farmhouse sink in the kitchen!
We got cleaned up and walked down to eat dinner at River’s Edge Cafe. It was delicious! And I don’t think it was because we just snacked for lunch. The food and service were great. We sat on the porch overlooking a garden of wildflowers at the edge of the river.
I ordered the crabcakes and Jimmy went for the surf and turf. We felt we deserved dessert after our ride today, so I went with the peanut butter pie, and he tried the lemon berry cake. Delicious!
It was the perfect ending to a beautiful day. Tomorrow on to Ohiopyle State Park, then Connellsville, where our truck has been waiting for us for 9 days!